In its heyday from 1880 to 1920, Ellis Island greeted about 12 million immigrants to America. Spaghetti and meatballs was not one of them. Though derived from the Sicilian dish called polpette, which featured smaller meatballs (as an entree, without pasta) and was served maybe three times a year, spaghetti and meatballs is a truly new-world phenomenon. It was inspired less from the rugged countryside of Italy and more from the abundance that greeted its emigres in America, who now had access to cheap meat courtesy of the Industrial Revolution and the beginnings of a national, no longer localized, food system. Sauce got heavier, and meat got ubiquitous.
After the Italian unification, poverty surged through the south, partly resulting from heavy taxes levied by the new government. Initially the Italian government encouraged emigration to relieve some of the economic blight. Four million Italians, mostly from the south, took the opportunity to start over in the new world. To this day, the American relationship to Italy and its food is largely reflective of what the Southern Italians brought with them. (And, of course, Jersey Shore.)
However they originally got concocted, spaghetti and meatballs are now a deep part of America’s food consciousness. They’ve become a classic comfort food, and, in true Italian style, are even better when you make them at home surrounded by friends and family. And you don’t need a Sicilian nonna to make them either, maybe just a Sunday afternoon and a glass of (Italian) wine.
Italian-American Spaghetti and Meatballs
For the meatballs
1 small yellow onion, finely diced
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and minced
1/2 c. parsley, minced
salt and pepper
1 tsp. crushed red pepper
1 lb. ground beef
1/2 c. parmesan
1 egg
1 c. bread crumbs
For the sauce
1 small yellow onion, finely diced
3 cloves garlic
1 carrot, peeled and finely diced
1 celery stalk, finely diced
1/2 c. parsley, minced
salt and pepper
1 c. white wine
1 bay leaf
1 jar of tomato passata
1 can of whole tomatoes
pinch of sugar
For the pasta
1 lb spaghetti
1 pot of salted, boiling water
Directions for the meatballs:
Preheat oven to 375.
Heat olive oil in a heavy-bottomed, oven-proof pan over medium, then saute the onions for a few minutes until tender. Add the garlic, parsley, salt, pepper, and crushed red pepper and saute another minute. Remove from heat and set on a plate to cool.
In a medium bowl, mix ground beef, salt, and egg. Add cheese, onion mixture, and bread crumbs. Be careful not to overmix.
Form into balls, and be sure to keep the size consistent so that they cook evenly. I made mine about the size of golf balls.
Wipe out any remaining onions from the pan with a paper towel. Bring olive or grapeseed oil to high heat, then brown the meatballs on each side. It’s important not to crowd the pan, so make them in batches if you have to. Finish in the oven for about 10 minutes, or until cooked through.
For the sauce:
Heat olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium, then saute onions for about 3 minutes. Add the celery and carrots and continue to saute until soft. Add the garlic and half the parsley, plus salt and pepper, and cook for another 30 seconds.
Add the wine and deglaze the pot. Let it reduce by half. Add the bay leaf and the tomato passata, and lower heat to a simmer. Add the can of whole tomatoes and mash with a potato masher. I like to leave it a little chunky, but you can adjust accordingly. Add a pinch or two of sugar.
Let simmer for about half an hour, then add the other half of the parsley. Adjust seasonings to taste.
For the pasta:
Boil the whole pound (c’mon, you know you’ll want leftovers–or you can feed your buddies) until almost al dente. Drain and transfer to the pot with the sauce to finish. Let cook about 30 seconds in the sauce until beautifully al dente.
Serve with a few meatballs and grated parmesan. Garnish with a bit of parsley and an Italian accent: mangia!